Acer Palmatum or Japanese Maple

Acer palmatum

Japanese Maples are wonderful ornamental trees, their leaf shape and color, plus their branch structure, adding so much to the landscape. These plants are so valuable to my own landscaping that I can’t say enough good things about them. 
These maples at first look somewhat delicate, but are in fact very hardy, with little susceptibility to insect pests or air pollutants. The Japanese Maple is a deciduous shrub or small tree, which can resemble an upside down pyramid when young, transforming into a more domed shape when mature. It comes in very diverse and striking varieties, the leaves varying from what is seen as a typical Maple, to a more lace-like leaf shape. The foliage can be anywhere from light green to a deep rich burgundy and individual plants can either be the low growing, weeping version or a shaded tree reaching up to twenty feet or more.

Japanese Maple in front of Basalt Fountain

Soil Preparation and Amendments for the 10$ Hole

Soil prep is one of the most important things that can be done when planting. This will help with moisture retention, nutrient retention and root development of all plants.

When you excavate for a new plant, no matter what size plant, mix with the native soil your amendments.

Amendments are peat moss, compost, sand (preferrably sharp sand), top soil, fertilizer and even moisture absorb crystals.

Amendment amounts per plant on average (adjust according to size of root ball): ~ approximately 3-5 pounds of spagnum peat moss ~2-3 heaping shovelfulls of compost, top soil and sharp sand (not beach sand) ~ approximately 2 cups of fertilizer.

Add a little more sand, if you have clay soil.

Add 3/4ths of the fertilizer to the amended soil and reserve the final 1/4th to sprinkle over the top of the root ball.

Do NOT put amended soil over the top of the rootball. Rather, apply a layer of mulch on the top of the rootball. This will prevent suffocation if the plant was planted too deep. 

With the excavated soil in a pile next to the planting hole, mix your amendments into the pile. After mixing, backfill your plants, compacting the soil around the root ball of the plant with your hands, end of the shovel, pry bar knob end, or even a 2×4 scrape. Compacting the soil around the root ball is very important to remove air pockets. Also, fill the hole with water to help settle the new soil.

Also important before planting, I cut slits in the burlap of large balled & burlaped trees and shrubs. For smaller balled & burlaped plants, I completely remove the burlap. Attending the burlap speeds the plants ability to spread roots and grow in its new spot. Girdling of the trunk can occur if the ropes are left on.

Ten Dollar Hole for a Two Dollar Plant

Spend ten dollars on a hole for a two dollar plant. Spend money for the proper soil amendments when planting new plants. The proper soil preparation is costly at first but will pay for itself over time.

Make sure the plants have the correct moisture level at planting time. Water them when dry before planting. Watering the plant after you have back filled may not guarantee the proper water exchange to the plant.

Make sure the soil ball of the plant is well moist throughout the first year after planting to help ensure the root system will grow and expand into the existing soil, giving the plant a more secure future to thrive.    

If you are going out of town after you have planted, make sure you have someone come and water — even if it will rain. And make sure they water enough. Keeping your new plants and trees properly watered their first year is well worth the time and ensures a good start for your investment. Plants and trees have different watering requirements, make sure you ask the nursery or your landscaper. Knowing how much will also prevent overwatering.

Ajuga Reptans

Prune Trees in Spring!

Spring is around the corner. Don’t wait to prune your trees.

Make sure you prune any Oak trees now before the warm weather hits. Oaks should not be pruned in warm / hot weather or when the sap is running.  Oak trees can get Oak Wilt  if they are pruned in the wrong time.

Ornamental trees are much easier to prune when the leaves are off as you can see the structure of the tree. Take the time to study the structure of the tree then remove the unwanted vertical branches.

For weeping trees prune the lower branches up off the ground, thinning as you go.

One of My Favorite Trees

Japanese Stewartia

Common name: Japanese Stewartia

Latin Name: Stewartia pseudocamellia

Size: 20′ tall and 15-18′ wide, moderate grower

Stewartia is an uncommon ornamental decidous tree that compliments any garden. Its shape is narrow, more columnar; although it is not a true columnar. It flowers in late summer when most other flowering trees are done.

The single, five-petaled flowers are about the size of a sand dollar and white with yellow centers. But not known for a fragrance.

The flower of Stewartia

The bark of the Stewartia has a reddish-gray camouflage look, some describe it as a lightning bolt pattern. The bark exfoliates when the branches are approximately 2 to 3 inches in diameter. Ask your landscaper to plant a 2 to 3 inch caliper tree and it should be exfoliating.

Stewartia is climatically tempermental though. It grows in Zones 5 to 7, potentially 4 but here in Zone 5 the tree will need winter protection. This protection can be accomplished by its placement in the landscape garden. I tend to plant them on the Eastern side of a house or building, away from winter prevailing winds and the closer winter sun. The closeness and angle of the sun and the resulting snow glare can sunburn the Stewartia. Another option is a burlap wrap for winter.

I did plant Stewartia on the western side of one of my clients’ homes, but the houses are built closer together there and the other large trees planted nearby created a wind buffer.